From Heavy Drinker to Moderate User
The inventory from March 1865 of Johan (Jean, “Janne”) Matias Fredrik, Sibelius’s uncle and the head of the family, lists his possessions. It includes the following items stored in the family warehouse on Läntinen Tullikatu in Loviisa:
- 140 jugs of Sherry Wine
- 45 jugs of Red Wine
- 42 jugs of Port Wine
- 11 jugs of Pajonette
- 7 jugs of Muscat
- 7 jugs of Wine Spirit
- 3 jugs of Cognac
- 1 jug of Wine
- ½ jug of Punsch
- 3/8 jug of Catalana
- 11 bottles of Liqueur
- 6 bottles of Oloroso Wine
1 jug = 2.617 liters
The Sibelius family in Loviisa was not narrow-minded. Their positive Christianity included a tolerant attitude towards alcohol use. The wine crates that arrived as Christmas gifts at the composer’s childhood home in Hämeenlinna probably came from this warehouse.
In the Hämeenlinna home of his grandmother Katarina Borg, alcohol consumption was more strictly judged. Even during his adolescence, Janne’s drinking might have been limited to “beer or porter,” which a doctor once prescribed to strengthen a convalescent. Sibelius did not become particularly fond of beer; in a letter from around the turn of the 20th century, he even complained about the bad taste of German “bier.”
His experiences with alcohol increased during his study years in Helsinki from 1885 to 1889. Sibelius is known to have drunk “brotherhood toasts” around 1886 with critic Karl Flodin, and he also spent time in cafes and restaurants with the “Leskoviitit,” a circle of friends led by piano teacher Ferruccio Busoni, from the autumn of 1888 onward. However, he kept his drinking under control since he lived in the same rented apartment with his mother and aunt.
It was only during his study years in Berlin and Vienna that Sibelius fully indulged in the joys of alcohol, with mentions of “champagne” and other pleasant acquaintances appearing in his letters. Even then, he emphasized to Robert Kajanus in his letters that he was not always drunk.
In the early years of his marriage, Sibelius frequented restaurants. One can get an idea of the drinking culture of artists at the time by looking at Gallén’s “Symposion” painting. According to it, the favorite drink at Kämp in 1894 was Benedictine or monk liqueur. If the recipe was similar to today’s, one can believe Sibelius’s claim that a single bottle could last the whole night. “We didn’t drink as much spirits in our sessions as people might think,” Sibelius later emphasized.
It was during these years that Sibelius began his wine hobby. In the 1890s, his favorite drink seemed to be Burgundy wine, which he liked to sip a couple of glasses of before entertaining friends with his piano improvisations. Like many other wine enthusiasts, Sibelius gradually moved to Bordeaux wines, initially favoring the soft and full-bodied wines of the St. Emilion region. From there, he progressed to increasingly finer brands.
In his later years, Sibelius’s favorite brands included the high-quality label Chateau Paveil de Luze, Chateau Pontet-Canet, and Chateau Palmer, still known as a premium brand. In 2002, a bottle of Chateau Palmer cost 96 euros at Finland’s Alko, and prices were no cheaper in Paris.
Receipts and similar documents from the Sibelius family’s daily life have been preserved from 1902 onward. These reveal the composer’s other favorite drinks (See Sibelius’s selections).
On July 20, 1905, Sibelius visited Helsinki to collect 8,000 current euros sent by his publisher Lienau and to replenish his drink stocks. On the same day, Fazer sold all its Sibelius works to Breitkopf & Härtel!
Before sobering up in 1908, Sibelius mainly bought whiskey and cognac for home use. He occasionally bought vermouth and even more rarely sherry. The drinks consumed in restaurants varied depending on the occasion. When it was for culinary indulgence with starters and desserts, the drink list might include sherry, beer, and a shot (cold starters), red wine (main meat dish), a few intermediate whiskeys, dessert wine (sweetish dessert), and cognac (coffee and cigar). Sometimes the evening continued with champagne and oysters.
However, if Sibelius went to a restaurant to escape his problems, he might be content with just a sandwich and a bottle of champagne. The latter part of the evening was usually monotonous, consisting of cognac, coffee, cigar, cognac, coffee, cigar…
In 1908, Sibelius underwent throat surgery, leading to complete sobriety for almost seven years. From 1915 until the introduction of Prohibition in 1919, Sibelius’s restaurant bills followed the pattern of the early century.
The Prohibition era of 1919-1932 did not hinder Sibelius’s alcohol consumption; it only limited the range of available quality. He obtained spirit, medicinal cognac, and wine by prescription from the Kerava pharmacy. The pharmacies also had a good selection of alcohol, which could be bought with a prescription “for medicinal purposes.”
Sibelius had no shortage of prescription writers. For example, in October 1927, he could send an order to the Helsinki Market Square pharmacy: “10 bottles of whiskey and 10 bottles of Sauternes, both of good brand.”
By the time Prohibition ended in April 1932, Sibelius was already well off. Thus, in May-June, he purchased a rather high-quality basic stock for Ainola. The purchase, valued at 1400 current euros, did not strain his wallet. Sibelius wanted to maintain his home’s hospitality.
By the 1930s, Sibelius had become a moderate drinker. His preferences had also changed; he favored sweeter varieties.
Sibelius stayed in Helsinki hotels for long periods in the 1930s while composing his eighth symphony, but few saw him. The aging composer preferred to dine in private cabinets.
Purchase invoices from the 1940s
World War II did not reduce the quantity or quality of Ainola’s alcohol stock. The hospitable host maintained his extensive stock until his death. As he aged, Sibelius’s consumption decreased even further. There was even a miracle when the master of Ainola skipped a grog. He explained to his guests, “I’ve already had one.” And indeed he had – over the course of his long life.